Garment construction and method of making same



P. FRAN KEF...

Deso T99 i950 GARMENT CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD OF' MAKING SAME Filed Feb.10, 1950 2 Sheets-Shee't /r/ iff/iff;

IN VEN TOR. Fez?? Dec, i9, i195 P. FRANKx-:L

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD MAKING SAME Filed Feb. l0, 1950 2Sheets-Shea?I 2 IN VEN TOR. PQ Zer- Frankel attached a panel piece.

Patented Dec. 19, 1950 GARMENT CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD OF MAKING SAMEPeter Frankel, Rego Park, N. Y., assigner to Peter Morton Leisure Wear,Inc., New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application February10, 1950, Serial No. 143,553

4 Claims.

* This invention relates to new and useful improvements in garments anda method of manufacturing the same and has particular reference to themanufacture of sport and leisure coats.

In garments of this general type heretofore presented there has been aloose facing provided in the inner side of the forward edge of the frontportion of the garment which in many ways, has been objectionable.

One object of the invention is to provide the same degree ofreinforcement to this part of the garment and yet eliminate this looseap or facing.

A further object is to provide a front portion of a garment with adouble layer of reinforcement along the forward edge of the garmentfront, across the shoulders, and along the bottom in the area where apocket is generally disposed.

A still further object is to provide a novel garment in which some ofthe seams connecting the parts are reversed.

Yet another object is to provide a novel construction of pocket.

Still another object is to provide a garment front with a novel paneldisposed on the outside thereof and connected thereto with invisibleseams, and related thereto at the bottom to form a novel pocketarrangement.

In brief and general terms, the invention includes a novel garmentconstruction and method of making the same. The garment comprises afront piece on the outside surface of which is This panel piece extendsgenerally up along the forward edge of the front piece, across the topat the shoulders, and across the bottom along the pocket area. The

` vertical part of the panel along the forward edge of the front pieceis relatively narrow.

The pocket construction includes a pocket lining element sewed alongthree sides to the front piece and along the top thereof to the panelelement thus providing a simple and very efficient and economical pocketconstruction.

With the garment thus including a front piece to the outside of which isattached a panel of the general configuration above described, I havedeveloped a novel and simple method of sewing these two parts together,so that when completed certain seams are reversed. In considering this,

it must be noted that the front edge of the panel extends up along thefront edge of the front piece and also in alinement with the top andbottom edges of the front piece. However, the rear edge of the panel maybe variously shaped but in general, extends in a somwhat U-shaped mannerup along the intermediate portion of 'the front piece and then spreadout somewhat horizontally at the top and bottom of the panel formingupper and lower limbs of the panel of which the lower limb is generallymuch wider than the upper.

To connect these two pieces, I first dispose the rear edge of the panelon the intermediate area of the front piece in a laterally abuttingrelation with the rear edge of the panel facing toward the front edge ofthe front piece and then sew them together along this rear edge.

After this is done, I take the free portion of the panel and fold itaround the rear portion of the front piece and dispose itsforward edgein lateral abutment with the forward edge of the front piece and sewthem together, this sewing being along the front edge of the thusabutted pieces and along the bottom edges thereof. When this sewing iscomplete, I then take the combined pieces thus sewed and turn theminside out and thus have a completed front'piece with attached panelpiece with the seams not visible. The pocket piece having been formed atthis time makes a simple, compact, novel, ornamental front for a garmentwith proper double reinforcement along the front edge thereof and acrossthe shoulders and the bottom. This garmentI thus achieves all thestrength of former ones without having a loose fiap or facing showing,and with certain seams reversed.

The present preferred form which the invention may assume is illustratedin the drawings which show a coat made in accordance with the invention,and showing the construction of the coat and the steps taken in itsmanufacture. The figures of the drawings, are as follows:

Fig. 1 is a front elevation of a coat garment embodying the invention;

Fig. 2 is an elevation of a front piece or layer;

Fig. 3 is an elevation of a panel piece or layer which is disposed overthe front piece shown in Figure 2;

Fig. 4 is a partial vertical section taken on the line 4 4 of Figure 3;

Fig. 5 is an elevation of one of the fronts of the coat in partlyassembled condition;

Fig. 6 is a horizontal section taken on the line 6 6 of Figure 5;

Fig. 7 shows the garment in folded condition in the next stepv of itsassembly after the step shown in Figure 5;

Fig. 8 is a horizontal section taken on the line 8-8 of Figure 7;

respective top edges l and 2|. operator is then thrust down between thepanel Fig. 9 is a horizontal section taken on the line 9-9 of Figure 1;

Fig. 10 is a view of a completed front portion with part of it brokenaway;

Fig. 11 is a vertical section taken on the line Il-llof Figure 1; and

Fig. 12 is a horizontal section taken on the line |2-I2 of Figure l.

Referring now to the specic form of the invention shown in the drawings,it will be seen that the invention concerns a novel and unique form ofcoat front or front for any other form of garment which front as awhole, includes a main front piece or layer l0 of cloth over which isdisposed and to which is connected, an outer panel piece Il of generallyU-shape which thus provides a complete front with a double layer ofmaterial across the shoulders, down the outer edge thereof and acrossthe bottom in the region of the ordinary pocket and so assembled as to Lhave no inside loose facings, and with certain seams reversed.

Referring to the main front piece l0, it will be seen (Figure 2) that ithas a bottom edge l2,

back edge i3, forward edge I4, and top edge l5 lalined with the edge i4,its bottom edge alined with the edge l2 and with its upper edge 2lalined With the edge I5.

After these two pieces are cut out as shown in Figures 2 and 3, theiirst step in the assembling of them is shown in Figure 3, in which apocket lining piece 22 is sewed to the panel piece il Y along the edgeof the lining piece 22 in the figure.

After this operation, the next step in the assembling of the garment isshown in Figures 5 and 6, in which the panel Il is laid out over themain front piece il) but in the reverse direction, and

Y is sewed along its back edge I9 to the front piece l0 as show-n, withthe exception of that portion of the edge i9 which is over the pocketlining piece.

The next step is to sew the lining piece 22 along its bottom and sidesto the outer face of the front piece I, and the resultant condition ofthe parts after this step is completed is shown in Figure 5.

The next step, and considering Figures G and 8 5 to visualize thisprocedure, the right side of the front piece l0 is pulled in togetherand then the left side of it is swung around, as-indicated by the'arrowin Figure 6, to inclose this pulled in right side and to bring its frontedge le in aliner ment with the forward edge IS of the panel H, as shownin Figure 8, which is a section taken on Figure 7. These two laterallyabutting edges ld and I9 are then sewed together as indicated in Figure8. This line of sewing is shown in dotted lines 23 in Figure l0. Whenthis step is completed, it is then seen that the front portion iii andthe panel Il are sewed together along front and rear edges of the paneland the front and intermediate areas of the front portion respectivelyand along their bottom edges, but it is to be noted that they are notconnected along their The hand of the portion and the front portion atthis point, and

the article thus sewed is turned inside out. In other words, the hand ofthe operator is extended down into the top of the folded article shownin Figure 8, and the material turned inside out thus forming the garmentportion shown in Figure 1f), ywhich represents the completed panelledfront portion, in thiscase, of a leisure coat.

From a consideration of the above Vstatement of the objects of theinvention, the general description of it and the detailed specificationthereof taken in connection with the drawings, it will be obvious insummation that I have provided a front piece to a garment with a panelpiece disposed on the outside thereof and covering and reinforcing thefront piece adjacent the forward edge thereof, as well as across theshoulder portion and the bottom portion thereof.

The pocket provided is simple and novel and eicient and economical toproduce. The method of sewing the pieces together is simple, efficient,and easily provides the assembled pieces in the proper relation withoutshowing any of the seams. The garment is thus presented with sufficientand proper reinforcement along desired lines and areas.

While the invention has been described in detail and with respect to thepreferred form shown in the drawings, it is not to be limited to suchdetails and forms since many changes and modifications may be made inthe invention without departing from the spirit and scope of theinvention in its broadest aspects. Hence, it is intended to cover anyand all forms and modifications of the invention which may come withinthe language or scope of any one or more of the appended claims.

What I claim as my invention is:

l. In a garment, a front piece having a forward edge, a panel memberoverlaying the front piece, the edge of the panel member adjacent theforward edge of the front piece and the edge of said panel member remotefrom said forward edge being turned inwardly and a line of stitchingpassing through the inturned portions only and joining said inturnedportions to the front piece.

2. In a garment, a front piece having a forward edge, a panel memberoverlaying the front piece, the panel piece comprising a portion havingan edge extending up along the forward edge of the front piece, and anattachment adge remote from said forward edge, an upper `limb extendingacross the shoulder area of the front piece, and a lower limb extendingacross the bottom portion of the front piece, the forward edge and saidremote attachment edge of said panel member being turned inwardly and aline of stitching passing through the inturned portions only and joiningsaid inturned portions to the front piece.

3. In a garment, a front piece, a panel piece sewed to the outside ofthe front piece with the connecting seams reversed, the panel piecehaving a lower limb extending across the lower portion of the frontpiece and connected to the front piece along its bottom edge and alongpart of its top edge, a pocket lining sewed to the outer face of thefront piece back of said limb along its sides and bottom, the upper edgeof the lining being sewed to the inside face of the upper edge of thepanel limb to form a pocket.

4. A method of forming a garment involving the connection of a panelpiece to the outside of a front piece, which comprises the step ofdisposing the rear edge of said panel piece along the intermediate areaof the front piece with the said rear edge of the panel `piece facingtowards the forward edge of the front piece and in lateral abutment withsaid area, the step of sewing the rear edge of said panel to the frontpiece, the step of folding the forward edge of the panel piece aroundthe rear portion of the front piece to the 5 REFERENCES CITED Thefollowing references are of record in the le of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 415,447 Cluett Nov. 19, 1889605,077 Carter June 7, 1898 2,488,795 Avery Nov. 22, 1949

